Carnarvon Gorge is one of Queensland�s hidden treasures,
with a smorgasbord of natural attractions in every
direction. Driving from
Brisbane, the easiest route is via Roma and Injune which takes about nine hours. Alternatively,
it is half the distance south west from Rockhampton. One
of the best ways to enjoy a holiday in the bush is by
campervan hire, as there are excellent camping facilities and you can stay as long as it takes to enjoy the beauty of this
wilderness retreat.
Takarakka Bush Resort is an ideal base with excellent
facilities, including a convenience store and central to all
the great walks. The grounds and surrounds are fantastic
for a stroll, with the Platypus Pool just around the corner
and the nearby lookout a perfect location to enjoy the cliff
sunset. Kangaroos and wallabies are locals here, as well as
the occasional prickly echidna. The Information Centre
nearby also doubles as a starting point for many of the
walks.
The best time to visit is between March and October, when
temperatures are mild, although it does get very cold at
nights. The summer months bring 40 C temperatures during
the day so the waterholes are an ideal way to escape the
heat, and there are not as many visitors around this time.
This is also the rainy season, so come prepared to weather a
few storms. The gorge is so large that you can easily feel
like the only person in the world once you get off the
beaten track onto some of the longer walks.
I have been fascinated by this �oasis in the desert� ever
since my first school camp, and still remember the wonder I
felt when we stepped off the coach into a world of eucalypt
trees, kangaroos and waterholes. I still remember the
exhilaration of finally reaching the gorge lookout, the
eeriness of the moss gardens, and the echoes of the natural
amphitheatre. Every visit since then has recaptured my
heart, and thankfully the natural beauty of the Gorge has
stayed exactly as it was all those years ago.
The biggest attraction is the Gorge itself, and avid
bushwalkers will enjoy the many walks available. Each is
clearly signposted and suits most levels of fitness. The
Rock Pool walk is a favourite, which takes close to an hour
ending in a shady rest area and pool surrounded by ferns and
casuarina trees. If you�re lucky you might see a platypus
or two. The Moss Gardens take a few hours return but your
reward is an incredible display silky moss, ferns and rich
undergrowth. The rock walls seem to tower overhead with a
canopy of palms, ferns and everything green.
The Nature Trail, taking only an hour return, is a must and
best enjoyed at dusk or dawn to capture the wildlife,
colours and beautiful scenery along Carnarvon Creek at its
best. The Boolimba Bluff Walk takes you high up to a
panoramic view of the gorge. Don�t forget your camera and
be prepared for a lot of steps and ladders. It is well
worth the trek for such incredible scenery of the gorge at
its best. My favourite has always been the Amphitheatre
which can only be reached via a sturdy ladder leaning into
its sixty metre chamber. Once you are inside it is hard to
believe that such an impressive attraction has been formed
by the sheer force of running water.
Another great idea is to plan a day trip through the gorge
combining a number of walks. For instance, the Aboriginal
Art gallery, Ward�s Canyon, Amphitheatre and Moss Gardens
can all be joined together. The walks have been designed
so that a number of them branch off the main walking track.
For flora and fauna lovers, a visit to Ward�s Canyon is
another must do with the world�s largest fern proudly on
display.
Why not pack a picnic lunch and hike to the Devil�s signpost
or The Ranch for the day? The tracks are easily marked but
not used as frequently which means you often have the
wilderness to yourself. Another adventure option is to
walk the length of Carnarvon Gorge. This is an overnight
experience which needs some planning but is worth every
minute of amazing scenery.
Birdwatchers will think they are in heaven with wedge tailed
eagles, peregrine falcons, rainbow lorikeets, king parrots
and kookaburras just some of the birds at home here. Dusk
is always noisy, with a host of birds singing to each other
around the campgrounds. You can�t forget the owls and tawny
frogmouths which come alive at night.
You need to plan for at least three days to a week to
experience the best of Carnarvon Gorge. There is something
about driving through the outback in a
campervan hire Queensland for miles and finally
reaching an oasis of such magnitude. Once you visit you
will have to come back again and again.
Jenny Brewer
